A Year In The Ring of Fire

Well I am Home, I have sorted my job applications for the day and other menial tasks one has to do at home so I thought I'd get this finalised....  enjoy

I have been plotting and planning this blog post ever since I got to South East Asia as to me that signals the end of the trip, despite still being 3 months away at the time it feels like nothing. This was not to say I wasn't keen to carry on travelling, I was. In fact when Welshman decided to head home I seriously considered the same thing but it was never a viable option. I know I would have regretted it, there were still adventures to be had, people to meet and experiences to well, experience. Cambodia proved it was the right choice, the warmth of the people and everything coming together at New Year. (I'm actually writing this still in Cambodia with a solid 45 days to go before I even finish my travels but what I can recall about the year starts now). Being the cynical grumpy bastard I pretend to be, this is actually quite hard, recollecting on everything that has happened, from the amazing scenery to the wonderful people I have met. It has been such an amazing year that I can't understand what I ever did to deserve it. In travelling around the World you learn that despite everything it isn't that big (anymore) and we are all the same. Despite this it is big enough that I have come nowhere near seeing everything and there is still so much more to see. I have seen the worlds highest mountain and sailed under the stars, slept in a temple, a farmers house and many other locations (including an airport). I crossed the international date line twice as well as making it to the Southern Hemisphere for the first time. At every step and turn, sometimes just when you began to lose faith you would meet or find something that made it all worthwhile. So, A year in the ring of fire, Sauntering 'Vaguely' Downwards the year that was.

The Very Beginning, Night One - Hong Kong.

I couldn't quite figure out how to mention everything so I will do brief recaps/highlights of countries, you can find the whole adventure in the previous blogs. Starting in China I fell in love all over again, the people, culture, food and everything. I did all the things I meant to and had time left for some new things. I slept in a temple on a mountain, saw the Li River and even made it to Tibet where I met people who had never seen the Sea. I have since met people who've never seen snow. China was a good reintroduction to the travel lifestyle as it is fairly familiar to me. I'll chuck Korea in here as I was only there a week, seeing Clare who I hadn't seen in a while which is always nice.

Stupa in Zhongdian

Japan came next, a complete culture shock from China. I drank too much sake and ate raw horse. I slept in traditional Ryokans with Tatami mats with sliding doors. I saw the illustrious snowcapped Mt.Fuji, got lost on the Tokyo metro and spent a majority of my time in the 'Onsen'. Arriving 2 months after the Fukushima disaster I saw a country in mourning and repair, yet still very upbeat. It is this pragmatism and cheer that teaches you obstacles can be overcome even with the threat of nuclear oblivion hovering over you.

Nara, Japan

Canada was once again completely different(obviously) to Asia. I watched Ice hockey, predicted a riot and was impressed with the clean up effort afterwards; the best and worst of humanity in 24 hours. It was apparent it wasn't the Vancouvans who had really rioted as they spoke out against it. I saw a humpback whale with Mercedes and saw the most beautiful lake in the world, before walking on a glacier and witnessing bears in the wild(an everyday occurrence for Canadians). Canada was a land of natural wonder and odd food (Poutine)

Lake Louise

Continuing South I walked across Niagara falls where I learnt how incompetent bus companies in America are. I met my friend Welshie for some well needed companionship. We joked with police officers and visited most of the 'great american cities'. In America I was amazed at how generous Welshie's friends were with putting not just him up, but me a stranger too on the logic 'any friend of yours'. They not only put us up but often took us on tours or arranged them for us when they couldn't. It really made me address my half assed attitude to the same thing back home. They repeatedly went the extra mile at every turn. We met Savage and drove up the west coast witnessing beautiful nature and having hilarious adventures (the stripper, the lesbian and the transgender). I returned to Yosemite and it truly is one of the most beautiful places in the world. We saw both man and natures dark sides again, forest fires in Nevada and gambling addiction in Reno.

Lake Victoria

I parted ways with Welshman as me and Savage headed to Panama. We practised our Spanish with the hostel staff and had drunken conversations at 3am in the pool with lightning flashing above us. My naivety kicked in here as a I realised there is no land route from Panama to Colombia in order to get to Peru(the plan). In one of those amazing coincidences I learnt to you could sail to Colombia and so I ended up spending five days at sea sailing to Colombia which was one of the best experiences of the whole trip, and true to the subtitle I hadn't intended to visit Colombia but in the end I did, and I think I needed to. I fell in love with the way Colombian women move on the dancefloor and made it to Peru.

Puerto Lindo

Peru was easily one of my favourite places.Culturally I saw ancient lines, in a hilariously dangerous plane(now its hilarious), climbed Machu Picchu and hung out with monkeys in the Jungle. I cut short Chile just to adventure more in Peru. I met some truly amazing people and was invited to Peruvian birthday parties left right and centre. It wasn't all gravy in Peru there were times I questioned what I was doing and for a few days became unmotivated, but I think this was largely due to not having a proper coversation with anyone for about a week.  However everything transpired to turn the last couple of weeks in Peru in to another amazing time, returning to a hostel 1 month and a half later to still be recognised is a fantastic feeling. This continued in the few days I had in Chile, once again peoples generosity shone through. I met a girl who despite not having ever met agreed to meet and give me tips for Santiago(her mum works with my mum, so in typical mum meddling she passed on the details)

Local Peruvians

In New Zealand it was once again time to meet the Welshman, with a new companion the Stonelake. Old hockey boys from the Plymouth days. New Zealand is again a country of natural beauty. Driving around was a great way to see it as we could stop where and whenever. Once again the Welshmans contacts sorted us out with incredible hospitality, sometimes turning up no less than half an hour before and being lavished with wine. I popped in on my cousin Doug who has a house with a stunning view over South Wellington and the sea. I became frustrated with the New Zealand hostel system, a moniker of "for backpackers by backpackers" is clearly crap when every little thing is charged extra (and it isn't cheap to begin with). Despite this we had a great time in New Zealand, partied with Orlando Bloom (not really) and marvelled at the sites. Visiting Christchurch we saw the destruction from the Earthquake and it was sad to see that the centre has been ruined and the mood in town was rather solemn, while in Thailand we learnt that it had been hit with yet another Earthquake which is never good news. Australia was a write off because I can not afford to spend 3 weeks there.

Some River

Looking forward to returning to Asia, Thailand was both welcome but a bit of a disappointment at times. The rampant over commercialisation found in parts is almost exactly why one wants to leave England. I also found the backpackers weren't so much here to see things, experience culture but more get as drunk as possible. Despite this we met some incredible people, some stunning sites and amazing experiences. It is often when I became disheartened that the best things happen, there are definitely places in Thailand I would return to. I spent my first Christmas away from home, which was a quiet time for reflexion of the previous year and what was to come. Although I spent Christmas eve and Christmas day alone (apart from Kevin)  it never really felt depressing to be alone at this time due to being surrounded by beautiful beaches and relaxed beach bars with fireworks. I wondered if people were thinking "What kind of decisions do you have to make to end up alone at Christmas?"; in my case pretty good ones. However I shared a thought for those whose Christmasses weren't so good, and recounted some of the sights/stories I've seen or heard that were not so uplifting. The second half of Thailand made me think I had been a little too harsh on it as first as I discovered the other, nicer quieter side to it. The Welshman decided to go home midway through and three months early and I can understand why. Either way I eventually re-found my zest and headed to Cambodia.

Rai Leh, Ao Son Tai beach

I almost instantly fell in love with Cambodia. I celebrated an amazing New Year on the beach with new and (new) old friends with fireworks galore. I finally got my sailing fix on and enjoyed some incredible seafood before I left beaches behind for good. I witnessed the dark history of Cambodia and then the incredible sight that is Angkor Wat. The people in Cambodia were amazing and some of the friendliest on the whole trip. With time running out I had to leave Cambodia, rather reluctantly and it is an almost definite return location.

Fishing at Sunset in Cambodia

With time running out the next stop was Vietnam. I started by taking a boat trip down this part of the worlds most important/famous river the Mekong to the Delta area. I acclimatised to the hustle of Saigon and learn't more about the Vietnam war than I had really previously looked in to and learnt the horrors of Napalm and Agent Orange. I headed north in to what was a cold and wet climate. Tet got in the way of a lot of my plans but I met friends from home and made many new ones, which is what its all about. I visited the scenic sights of  Halong bay and the Hai Van Pass before finishing Vietnam in the  UNESCO heritage town of Hoi An, I enjoyed my time in Vietnam but I had met others who had not had such a great time, being scammed as such it reminded one to always be aware and how different experiences shape your opinions.

At Halong Bay

Laos was the next and last new country I would visit on the trip making it country number 15. For a period of time in Nam I had considered skipping Laos due to time constraints but in the end after everyone I know who had been telling me I had to I found the time to include it and was glad I did. Half of all travelling is relying on word of mouth for places and you get an opinion that even the best guide book would fail to provide. I skipped Vientiane and headed to party capital Vang Vieng where I randomly met people I had met all around South East Asia, once again ramming home the 'it's a small world' theory. After leaving Vang Vieng it was time for cultural time in another UNESCO heritage city where I took in temples and met lots of elephants. Laos was a stunning country and I am disappointed I had so little time to explore, there are many sights I would have liked to get in but this is the nature and inevitably when time has become short. The last few months in Asia were almost a contrast to the first three where I had plenty of time and I operated at a slower pace but still managed to take (almost) everything in.

Temple, Laos

Returning to Thailand almost felt like a home coming, not just because it is the only country I revisited on the trip, and nor because I was returning to a familiar location (I was not, Chiang Mai was totally new to me) it was because it was the end, I had the prospect of seeing old faces with little agenda except to prepare for heading back to rainy England. I needn't say a lot here because it is all covered in the previous blog post. What I can say is that obviously being so close to returning home I spent a lot of time thinking about what I will do when back home and seeing If I have come any closer on figuring out what to do with myself. So far the answer is no. I was ready to return not because I am bored/sick of travelling but just because I am looking forward to familiarity and staying in the same place for a while. This is what I came to crave towards the end, stability.

Elephants by the river

People will probably ask me if I've changed or if I learnt anything on my travels. I am not sure if I have changed, I feel my perspective has slightly changed and I hope I am a bit more welcoming and can repay some of the hospitality I have experienced on my travels. Before I finally round up this year long review I thought I'd include some statistics/figures ranging from countries visited, books read to items lost/stolen;

Total countries visited: 15
Books read: over 30

I have taken over 20,0000 pictures.
I have gone through; 3 pairs of shoes, 2 side bags, 3 pairs of flip flops, 1 pair of shorts and 3 pairs of swim shorts.
I have lost; 2 phones, 1 towel and wash bag, a padlock and chain, 1 speaker, 2 t-shirts and most of my socks (Seriously I started with about 7 pairs, bought more along the way and I have about 3 left) :/
I have broken; 2 pairs of headphones, a pair of chopsticks.

On top of this I have mailed two boxes home and sent more stuff home with Welshie.


So to finish, I wrote the majority of this in Cambodia while I waited for a bus, it was an emotional recollection from the lows to the highs, but mostly due to the highs I got emotional. Setting out alone I could never have envisioned what was to come, before I set out I was apprehensive and wondered if I could actually make it a year. Some people think I'm brave for heading out on my own for a year, often I will hear "alone, wow I couldn't..." etc. Truth is, I am little fish in a big ocean with no direction and it was often other peoples faith in me that when stranded in a little village in Panama or in Peru in a tiny town at 3am for instance, that I didn't panic or throw it to the wall and carried on. I've met people who've been through much more hardship than I have ever had to endure and these people are inspiration, at home and abroad. They know who they are and if I tried to name them I'd feel bad if I forgot someone. At New Year in Cambodia we were asked, if there was one thing in 2011 we would have changed about the year, my answer "absolutely nothing" So as I wrote this in a bar in Cambodia back in January getting teary and not really caring who knew, thinking about it all, I'd do it all again in an instant (after a couple of months rest :P).

"You live and learn. At any rate, you live" - Douglas Adams
"Some things never change...some things do. .." Morpheus - The Matrix

My longest travel companion, Kevin & me in Vietnam at Hai Van Pass

Ancient Temples, Dark Pasts and River Adventures...

Leaving beaches behind in order to see traditional historical sights in Cambodia the first point of call was Phnom Penh, the capital and urban centre of everything. Its a return to the urban city that I have not really experienced since Bangkok. It is however nowhere near as big as Bangkok. The hawkers are reasonably aggressive as are the TukTuk drivers, you can't walk anywhere without being asked if you want a ride. Crossing the road, like most Asian cities is a daunting task. Although it goes against everything you've ever learnt about crossing the road the best thing to do is step out into the traffic, like with dogs, the cars/bikes can sense your fear and hesitation is likely to end badly. Just like in Chengdu they have 'car parks' for all the mopeds and these are actually staffed by a security guard despite just being a roped off area of the road. The markets are fun and interesting and sell everything you could ever want, but never what you need. The meat is hung out on stalls and bearing in mind its plus 30 degrees I seriously question the logic behind this. Phnom Penh is located on both the Tonle Sap and Mekong rivers making it a key port town, on top of this many vietnamese people live on boats on the river. It was previously a French colonial city and some of this still remains. Another quirk often found in Asian cities they have evening aerobics glasses in open spaces where they dance(imagine dancerise but on the street).So enough history and context then (Will be more history later at relevant points as I feel I should share some knowledge that isn't so mainstream) and moving to tourism.

Meat in the market

The first port of call was the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda, an impressive complex consisting of many fine buildings, temples and Stupas. Originally built in the 15th century it was expanded in the 18th century. It was nice to spend an hour or so walking around. In the evening I went on a river cruise down the Tonle sap and Mekong and witnessed said Vietnamese living on their boats, with a backdrop of the sun going down. I ended the evening talking politics, local gossip and watching Ice hockey in a Canadian bar with some guys from the boat.

Royal Palace

Boat life

Fishing at sunset

Awaking with a cold from a very torrid sleep due to the heat I headed for what is a dark part of Cambodia's history; the Killing Fields and S21. Between the years of 1975 and 1979 the Khmer Rouge led by 'Pol Pot' (Saloth Sar) led a brutal paranoid dictatorship. You could be imprisoned and executed (without trial) for such heinous crimes as "speaking a foreign language", being a foreigner, being a teacher and so on. In Phnom Penh the prison where prisoners were tortured and false confessions were procured was a school reclassed as a prison and known as S21. To the southwest is a collection of mass graves. It was here they were taken to be brutally murdered; Men, Women, Children and shockingly also babies. Bullets were deemed too expensive and so farm equipment was used for the most part to beat or cut them to death. Both these locations are now memorials/museums to remember the terror that unfolded due to one regimes paranoia. It is sights like these that make you realise the truly dark capabilities of the human race, and why we need to remember stuff like this happens so that we can hopefully allow it never to happen again - 'lest we forget'. Further shocking is that the UN ignored the atrocities for almost 20 years and actually gave the Cambodian UN seat to the exiled Khmer Rhouge regime after they fled after the fall of their genocidal regime. Only in 2006 did a proper internationally recognised trial begin of the senior leaders responsible(almost 30 years later). I've made my point although there is a lot more to be said regarding these atrocities*, it like the A-bomb museum in Hiroshima and any Holocaust memorial is a rather harrowing experience.

After the depressing morning activities I headed to the Central Market to explore and see what weird items would be procured today. I actually found the two things I wanted, a new shaver($10) and a new combination padlock. The market itself is an art-deco circular building housing a lot of jewellery, clothing, electronics and pretty much anything else you could want. A few more temples taking in and it was time to move on to the next place, Battambang.

Killing Fields

Skulls(the writing on the sign says "Female Juveniles - 15 - 20 years old"

S21, Black and White for atmosphere(bleak)

'Art Deco' Central Market

Battambang is Cambodia's second biggest city and you've probably never heard of it, I hadn't till I was advised to visit it for a boat trip to Siem Reap. Despite being the second biggest city, it is very very quiet. Almost everything closes down before 8 and there really isn't that much to do. I only intended to stay a night but the Hotel insisted I waited a day for the boat because it was awful (other sources have since confirmed this) so I stayed longer. Despite there being little to do within the city, some temples around the countryside is where the fun is to be had. For all of 10 bucks I was whisked off on the back of a motorcycle. The first stop was a crocodile farm, where literally 100s are farmed for their skin. It is kind of illegal. Second stop was an abandoned Pepsi factory now derelict, interesting with an old bottling facility still hosting some old bottles. I then took a ride on a bamboo train (literally a train made of bamboo on the oldest bumpiest track imaginable) pictures will do this justice before I finally went to 'Killing Cave' where the Khmer Rouge killed people. It is now home to some temples and about 2 million bats. I watched the bats leave the cave which was quite awesome and seemingly never ending. I moved on to Siem Reap by an 8 hour boat journey!

Crocodile Farm

Abandoned Pepsi factory

Bamboo Train

Final flight of the bats

The 8 hour boat journey was relatively painless except for the crashes in to trees on corners taken far to fast. It was amazing and we saw local cambodians living on the river in stilted houses/boats. This was a real taste of everyday Cambodian life, we saw the kids on their way to school in little kayaks as well as numeruous fishermen/women.

River boat

Fishing

CHildren waving

Stilted House

Siem Reap is more entertaining than Battambang, still relatively run down but with a bustling nightlife and zest that Battambang completely lacked. I was here to visit the temples and therefore decided to see sunrise at Angkor Wat at 5am. In typical fashion it was kind of cloudy but still a good experience. I spent the rest of the morning visiting another 8 or so temples before returning to the hostel after 7 hours of touring before 12 and to go back to bed. The temples themselves are absolutely amazing, a real wonder and traversing them is an adventure in itself. Some temples have giant trees growing out of them, which only adds to the wonder. It is a true feat of engineering and some are to this day unexplored. The only real comparison I can draw is to Machu Picchu although I am sure some of the Aztec temples are on similar level. The sheer amount of them is also quite spellbinding. The pictures hopefully do them more justice than confuddled worlds. Spent the rest of the time in Siem Reap socialising, realising quite how little time I have left and planning what I have/must see/do beore I leave South East Asia.

Elephant Terrace

Bayon

Face in the rock

Ruins

Angkor Wat

I returned to Phnom Penh to arrange my Mekong boat tour to Ho Chi Minh city and in doing so caught up with (new)old friends and bumped into yet more people from Plymouth Uni, this time a girl who knows Hiro.

I have fallen in love with Cambodia, not so much any particular city but everything as a whole, from parties on the beach to the breathtaking temples in the jungle. The people are a revelation, I am not the only one who feels like this, in fact in the Lonely Planet the second top thing listed is 'the people'. It is an amazing country, I am sorry to leave but I am already strapped for time with certain activities looking less likely. I usually aim to spend at least a month in a country to get to know it, but this is just not going to happen, so a whistle stop tour is the name of game. I can no longer afford lazy days off and every time I lose a day it ebbs into some other activity. Two new countries still left and one to revisit, I have just over a month to do so.

*Further reading/viewing 'The Killing Fields' http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0087553/

'Race, Power and Genocide' - http://www.amazon.com/Pol-Pot-Regime-Genocide-Cambodia/dp/0300096496

pps. Further comments on SE Asia, Angry Birds is hugely popular, they sell merchandise literally everywhere. In Cambodia as far as I have found I can not find any male shower gel, it would appear the men do not wash. Also just like China in Cambodia they seem to be ridicuously overstaffed, funnily enough the English speaking Cambodians are quite sarcastic or at least like to take the piss(in a good way), as experienced previously in Sihanoukville. In all they are more laid back, have more passion and are generally more friendly than the Thai's. I actually find this quite often in the poorer countries or those with the tendency for natural disasters (Japan). It is always nice and when you meet people who have (comparatively) nothing who are ready to share at a whim it seriously makes you question your own sensibilities. I will talk at greater length about the generousity and hospitality I have experienced in the end of year/travel round up. Don't worry everyone I'm still equally as cynical and grumpy I have just learn some patience, compassion and humility.

Thai Christmas, Cambodian New Year - End Of The Beach Life

No country so far has quite blown me out of the water so quickly with first impressions as Cambodia has. It has been a welcome shock system after Thailand. But first a rewind back to Christmas in Lanta.

Christmas itself came round rather slowly, on Christmas eve I sat on the beach and watched some local dances, fireworks and had dinner at my usual haunt, had some amazing Chicken Satay and called an ‘early night’ In reality I watched some frozen planet and had old school pre xmas insomnia. Christmas morning I tried to find some eggs and Salmon as usual, but this failed I had toast. It being quite windy I decided to head straight to the beach for Windsurfing, some teething problems and I was off, windsurfing is a lot harder than sailing but I managed it, though I’m not fully converted yet. Two hours for a cheap £6, I then was thrown around a room by a little Thai lady… in so much as I had a massage after the hard work that was windsurfing. It being late I made the ‘obligatory’ calls home and once again set off for the beach, I had a beer to accompany the 20 minute walk this entails. The beach was quieter and less celebrations, I got Kevin a picture on Santa’s lap and headed for the most bizarre xmas dinner so far. A mix starter of thai dishes (No name Vegetable, Chicken Satay, Spring Rolls etc) followed by Fish fillet in ‘Thai Spices’ which was tasty if a little overpowering, dessert was fried pineapple and ice cream. All in a rather odd combination, one final wander down the beach collecting photos and I had another early night.

Xmas Cocktail

Starter

Somewhere in here is fish

Fire show

More Fire

Boxing day, more unchristmassy behaviour. I did some admin tasks and sent some letters before hiring a moped for the day and heading for new unchartered areas. I visited Old town and had some fried squid before heading to the Sea Gypsy Village for a beer overlooking the sea before taking a different route home passing mangroves, rice paddies and a ‘Monkey school’. Gasoline is sold in old vodka bottles from ‘Gas Stations’ on the side of the road, it is quite a fun experience filling up. One bottle costs 40bht (80 pence) and two to fill up the moped, the whole day of hire and fuel cost me 340bht (about £7) to really see how great this is, I almost did a loop of the whole island, a taxi to the second beach away from me cost 200bht. In the evening I met El and the dive crew for a Turkey Sandwich and the pub quiz in the Irish bar. (Perhaps the only Christmassy thing I did) leaving early I missed most of it though. A question for my dad here; “What sport is four letters long and starts with a ‘T’?

Pier

Sea Village

Petrol Station

Mangroves

Waking up early I was informed my minibus pick up was actually at 8am, not 7 and then it was rolled back to 9! Somewhere along the line I was picked up by the wrong minibus and upon realising this left at the car ferry port where I was assured I would be picked up in half an hour. Two hours later and thanks to the extremely helpful Thai ladies at the ticket desk I was finally picked up. A shocking service that was still better than Greyhound! (recap: Greyhound left me stranded in Cleveland for 7 hours due to their own ineptitude, hence why I will never use them again, except Canadian Greyhound, they were excellent) Thinking I’d miss my train and therefore my hotel, my bus, and everything I was amazed when I arrived in Trang with ten minutes to spare. I needn’t have worried as just like back home the train was an hour late. I clearly need to appease the travel gods and re-address my Karma balance. The opportunity presented itself at the border. I bumped into a German girl who was headed to Sihanoukville but did not have a ticket. Due to Welsh leaving me in Krabi I happened to have a spare ticket which included accommodation on the way. I had previously tried to shop it but had no takers up to this point so it came in useful. In kindness Tina paid for my dinner, breakfast and a few beers! She has now gone to a Psytrance festival. So that brings us to Cambodia!

From the border crossing it became apparent Cambodia was vastly different to Thailand. By different I mean poorer. It is however very friendly, despite all the hawkers trying to sell you a taxi ride. Making it to Sihanoukville after three days travel I took the first avaible room (it turns out its probably the only available room due to a Cambodian national week long holiday) I went in search of other options and found none so I went for a beer with the guys from the bus, on the beach. After 3 days of solid travel I think it was ok to have a written off day. I learnt some Cambodian and recounted tales of woe from the days travelling before having a phenomenal curry. Food is already looking better than Thailands hit and miss(I prefer Tai Pans Pad Thai) Other things I should mention, there are unfortunately quite a few beggars on the beach and around the bar, most have limbs missing. This is an obvious link to Cambodia’s dark past and the enormous amount of land mines still existing. However beer costs a dollar and the beaches are stunning.

Train Station

Does everyone remember last post about the hunt for Red October? I ended that adventure out of luck but with hope of Cambodia so fresh after a good night sleep I headed to Otres Beach, a 4km stretch of sand with Mangrove trees further away from the main beach. At first sights it seemed again I was out of luck, the usual sea kayaks and windsurfs were easily located. Having good authority that it existed I headed further on until… bingo, I saw a boat being launched. I found not one but four Hobie Cats all rigged and ready to sail, for the easy price of $10 an hour. Hobies are easy boats to sail and with barely a force 2 wind I sailed around a nearby island and down the beach for two hours. I say sailed, I spent half the time lying on my back sunbathing and steering with my feet (that’s how easy it is) The other thing I did was visit the Vietnamese embassy as my travel Karma has swung back to positive. Philip, a swiss I met on the bus mentioned he was getting it here because here is the quickest, turns out Phnom Penh(where I had planned to get it) merely sends the passport to Sihanoukville, hence the 5 day wait. However here it took less than 10 minutes and cost $45. A successful day it was time to head to the Hostel bar for free food and beer due to an opening party with the Australians from my room (who repeatedly mocked me for only spending 3 days there).

I spent the next day having a boat tour of some of the surrounding isands with the Australians from my room. It was an enjoyable excursion and beat my current plan for the day which was 'nothing'. I came home and was informed that my friend Loes from Koh Phangan had made the trip down from Bangkok to Sihanoukville for New Year and by some coincidence was also in my hostel. I found her in the bar next door, where I was berated for having not checked my emails and so being unaware she was definitely coming, where I was and if I was even still around. My excuse that the hostel internet was broken and I had been on a boat all day, didn't cut it. However eveything coming together successfully we headed out to the beach for dinner and to celebrate the New Year with the couple on a honeymoon she had met. This was immense, the whole evening fireworks were launched from the beach, culminating at midnight and lighting the endless beach. The fireworks continued as did the parties...(I should get some photos of the boat trip when the australians get in touch)

A vague idea of all the Fireworks - Photo by Chris Deeney

New Years day followed (as is the custom) I had my traditional new years breakfast of Steak and recounted the tales of the night before. We headed to the beach and failed to swim on the inflatable toys adorning the sea as I refused to pay for it. I lost a game of Paper, Rock & Scissors to a small Cambodian girl with 'sass' who referred to me as "Justin Bieber" and so had to buy a bracelet (I collect these anyway) before getting another bbq on the beach and more buckets. As the night before we had celebrated the end of the year, this night we celebrated the beginning of a new one, though it ended with lost flip flops. The plan had been to go sailing on the 2nd but various events scuppered this plan and instead the day was spent playing pool with Cambodians and watching Youtube videos. Turns out there hadn't been any wind this day, and on the 3rd we headed down Otres beach to once again spend an afternoon sailing in a rather good strong force 3. Tans improved, a casual beer at sunset on the beach followed by an amazing fish platter it was time to roll in to bed for early starts the next day and to leave behind the beach life. 

Otres Beach

Hobie in the Water

Sailors

Boats

Seafood Platter

So after bumming around on beaches for last the month, I probably ought to do some proper travelling, maybe, perhaps oh ohkay. Phnom Penh next for French architecture, S21 and the Killing Fields before then heading on to Siem Reap for a local village tour and of course Angkor Wat. You can’t come to Cambodia and not see it, it’s like going to the Cinema and not seeing a film. Sure there are other things to enjoy; the food, the trailers, the arcade etc but the main reason you go is to watch a film. This analogy works on most famous sites (Machu Picchu, Pyramids, Great Wall etc). After that culture it will be time to hit Vietnam, so for the most part the beaches are over and it will mostly be 'cultural' sites from now on. 

‘Peace