A Year In The Ring of Fire

Well I am Home, I have sorted my job applications for the day and other menial tasks one has to do at home so I thought I'd get this finalised....  enjoy

I have been plotting and planning this blog post ever since I got to South East Asia as to me that signals the end of the trip, despite still being 3 months away at the time it feels like nothing. This was not to say I wasn't keen to carry on travelling, I was. In fact when Welshman decided to head home I seriously considered the same thing but it was never a viable option. I know I would have regretted it, there were still adventures to be had, people to meet and experiences to well, experience. Cambodia proved it was the right choice, the warmth of the people and everything coming together at New Year. (I'm actually writing this still in Cambodia with a solid 45 days to go before I even finish my travels but what I can recall about the year starts now). Being the cynical grumpy bastard I pretend to be, this is actually quite hard, recollecting on everything that has happened, from the amazing scenery to the wonderful people I have met. It has been such an amazing year that I can't understand what I ever did to deserve it. In travelling around the World you learn that despite everything it isn't that big (anymore) and we are all the same. Despite this it is big enough that I have come nowhere near seeing everything and there is still so much more to see. I have seen the worlds highest mountain and sailed under the stars, slept in a temple, a farmers house and many other locations (including an airport). I crossed the international date line twice as well as making it to the Southern Hemisphere for the first time. At every step and turn, sometimes just when you began to lose faith you would meet or find something that made it all worthwhile. So, A year in the ring of fire, Sauntering 'Vaguely' Downwards the year that was.

The Very Beginning, Night One - Hong Kong.

I couldn't quite figure out how to mention everything so I will do brief recaps/highlights of countries, you can find the whole adventure in the previous blogs. Starting in China I fell in love all over again, the people, culture, food and everything. I did all the things I meant to and had time left for some new things. I slept in a temple on a mountain, saw the Li River and even made it to Tibet where I met people who had never seen the Sea. I have since met people who've never seen snow. China was a good reintroduction to the travel lifestyle as it is fairly familiar to me. I'll chuck Korea in here as I was only there a week, seeing Clare who I hadn't seen in a while which is always nice.

Stupa in Zhongdian

Japan came next, a complete culture shock from China. I drank too much sake and ate raw horse. I slept in traditional Ryokans with Tatami mats with sliding doors. I saw the illustrious snowcapped Mt.Fuji, got lost on the Tokyo metro and spent a majority of my time in the 'Onsen'. Arriving 2 months after the Fukushima disaster I saw a country in mourning and repair, yet still very upbeat. It is this pragmatism and cheer that teaches you obstacles can be overcome even with the threat of nuclear oblivion hovering over you.

Nara, Japan

Canada was once again completely different(obviously) to Asia. I watched Ice hockey, predicted a riot and was impressed with the clean up effort afterwards; the best and worst of humanity in 24 hours. It was apparent it wasn't the Vancouvans who had really rioted as they spoke out against it. I saw a humpback whale with Mercedes and saw the most beautiful lake in the world, before walking on a glacier and witnessing bears in the wild(an everyday occurrence for Canadians). Canada was a land of natural wonder and odd food (Poutine)

Lake Louise

Continuing South I walked across Niagara falls where I learnt how incompetent bus companies in America are. I met my friend Welshie for some well needed companionship. We joked with police officers and visited most of the 'great american cities'. In America I was amazed at how generous Welshie's friends were with putting not just him up, but me a stranger too on the logic 'any friend of yours'. They not only put us up but often took us on tours or arranged them for us when they couldn't. It really made me address my half assed attitude to the same thing back home. They repeatedly went the extra mile at every turn. We met Savage and drove up the west coast witnessing beautiful nature and having hilarious adventures (the stripper, the lesbian and the transgender). I returned to Yosemite and it truly is one of the most beautiful places in the world. We saw both man and natures dark sides again, forest fires in Nevada and gambling addiction in Reno.

Lake Victoria

I parted ways with Welshman as me and Savage headed to Panama. We practised our Spanish with the hostel staff and had drunken conversations at 3am in the pool with lightning flashing above us. My naivety kicked in here as a I realised there is no land route from Panama to Colombia in order to get to Peru(the plan). In one of those amazing coincidences I learnt to you could sail to Colombia and so I ended up spending five days at sea sailing to Colombia which was one of the best experiences of the whole trip, and true to the subtitle I hadn't intended to visit Colombia but in the end I did, and I think I needed to. I fell in love with the way Colombian women move on the dancefloor and made it to Peru.

Puerto Lindo

Peru was easily one of my favourite places.Culturally I saw ancient lines, in a hilariously dangerous plane(now its hilarious), climbed Machu Picchu and hung out with monkeys in the Jungle. I cut short Chile just to adventure more in Peru. I met some truly amazing people and was invited to Peruvian birthday parties left right and centre. It wasn't all gravy in Peru there were times I questioned what I was doing and for a few days became unmotivated, but I think this was largely due to not having a proper coversation with anyone for about a week.  However everything transpired to turn the last couple of weeks in Peru in to another amazing time, returning to a hostel 1 month and a half later to still be recognised is a fantastic feeling. This continued in the few days I had in Chile, once again peoples generosity shone through. I met a girl who despite not having ever met agreed to meet and give me tips for Santiago(her mum works with my mum, so in typical mum meddling she passed on the details)

Local Peruvians

In New Zealand it was once again time to meet the Welshman, with a new companion the Stonelake. Old hockey boys from the Plymouth days. New Zealand is again a country of natural beauty. Driving around was a great way to see it as we could stop where and whenever. Once again the Welshmans contacts sorted us out with incredible hospitality, sometimes turning up no less than half an hour before and being lavished with wine. I popped in on my cousin Doug who has a house with a stunning view over South Wellington and the sea. I became frustrated with the New Zealand hostel system, a moniker of "for backpackers by backpackers" is clearly crap when every little thing is charged extra (and it isn't cheap to begin with). Despite this we had a great time in New Zealand, partied with Orlando Bloom (not really) and marvelled at the sites. Visiting Christchurch we saw the destruction from the Earthquake and it was sad to see that the centre has been ruined and the mood in town was rather solemn, while in Thailand we learnt that it had been hit with yet another Earthquake which is never good news. Australia was a write off because I can not afford to spend 3 weeks there.

Some River

Looking forward to returning to Asia, Thailand was both welcome but a bit of a disappointment at times. The rampant over commercialisation found in parts is almost exactly why one wants to leave England. I also found the backpackers weren't so much here to see things, experience culture but more get as drunk as possible. Despite this we met some incredible people, some stunning sites and amazing experiences. It is often when I became disheartened that the best things happen, there are definitely places in Thailand I would return to. I spent my first Christmas away from home, which was a quiet time for reflexion of the previous year and what was to come. Although I spent Christmas eve and Christmas day alone (apart from Kevin)  it never really felt depressing to be alone at this time due to being surrounded by beautiful beaches and relaxed beach bars with fireworks. I wondered if people were thinking "What kind of decisions do you have to make to end up alone at Christmas?"; in my case pretty good ones. However I shared a thought for those whose Christmasses weren't so good, and recounted some of the sights/stories I've seen or heard that were not so uplifting. The second half of Thailand made me think I had been a little too harsh on it as first as I discovered the other, nicer quieter side to it. The Welshman decided to go home midway through and three months early and I can understand why. Either way I eventually re-found my zest and headed to Cambodia.

Rai Leh, Ao Son Tai beach

I almost instantly fell in love with Cambodia. I celebrated an amazing New Year on the beach with new and (new) old friends with fireworks galore. I finally got my sailing fix on and enjoyed some incredible seafood before I left beaches behind for good. I witnessed the dark history of Cambodia and then the incredible sight that is Angkor Wat. The people in Cambodia were amazing and some of the friendliest on the whole trip. With time running out I had to leave Cambodia, rather reluctantly and it is an almost definite return location.

Fishing at Sunset in Cambodia

With time running out the next stop was Vietnam. I started by taking a boat trip down this part of the worlds most important/famous river the Mekong to the Delta area. I acclimatised to the hustle of Saigon and learn't more about the Vietnam war than I had really previously looked in to and learnt the horrors of Napalm and Agent Orange. I headed north in to what was a cold and wet climate. Tet got in the way of a lot of my plans but I met friends from home and made many new ones, which is what its all about. I visited the scenic sights of  Halong bay and the Hai Van Pass before finishing Vietnam in the  UNESCO heritage town of Hoi An, I enjoyed my time in Vietnam but I had met others who had not had such a great time, being scammed as such it reminded one to always be aware and how different experiences shape your opinions.

At Halong Bay

Laos was the next and last new country I would visit on the trip making it country number 15. For a period of time in Nam I had considered skipping Laos due to time constraints but in the end after everyone I know who had been telling me I had to I found the time to include it and was glad I did. Half of all travelling is relying on word of mouth for places and you get an opinion that even the best guide book would fail to provide. I skipped Vientiane and headed to party capital Vang Vieng where I randomly met people I had met all around South East Asia, once again ramming home the 'it's a small world' theory. After leaving Vang Vieng it was time for cultural time in another UNESCO heritage city where I took in temples and met lots of elephants. Laos was a stunning country and I am disappointed I had so little time to explore, there are many sights I would have liked to get in but this is the nature and inevitably when time has become short. The last few months in Asia were almost a contrast to the first three where I had plenty of time and I operated at a slower pace but still managed to take (almost) everything in.

Temple, Laos

Returning to Thailand almost felt like a home coming, not just because it is the only country I revisited on the trip, and nor because I was returning to a familiar location (I was not, Chiang Mai was totally new to me) it was because it was the end, I had the prospect of seeing old faces with little agenda except to prepare for heading back to rainy England. I needn't say a lot here because it is all covered in the previous blog post. What I can say is that obviously being so close to returning home I spent a lot of time thinking about what I will do when back home and seeing If I have come any closer on figuring out what to do with myself. So far the answer is no. I was ready to return not because I am bored/sick of travelling but just because I am looking forward to familiarity and staying in the same place for a while. This is what I came to crave towards the end, stability.

Elephants by the river

People will probably ask me if I've changed or if I learnt anything on my travels. I am not sure if I have changed, I feel my perspective has slightly changed and I hope I am a bit more welcoming and can repay some of the hospitality I have experienced on my travels. Before I finally round up this year long review I thought I'd include some statistics/figures ranging from countries visited, books read to items lost/stolen;

Total countries visited: 15
Books read: over 30

I have taken over 20,0000 pictures.
I have gone through; 3 pairs of shoes, 2 side bags, 3 pairs of flip flops, 1 pair of shorts and 3 pairs of swim shorts.
I have lost; 2 phones, 1 towel and wash bag, a padlock and chain, 1 speaker, 2 t-shirts and most of my socks (Seriously I started with about 7 pairs, bought more along the way and I have about 3 left) :/
I have broken; 2 pairs of headphones, a pair of chopsticks.

On top of this I have mailed two boxes home and sent more stuff home with Welshie.


So to finish, I wrote the majority of this in Cambodia while I waited for a bus, it was an emotional recollection from the lows to the highs, but mostly due to the highs I got emotional. Setting out alone I could never have envisioned what was to come, before I set out I was apprehensive and wondered if I could actually make it a year. Some people think I'm brave for heading out on my own for a year, often I will hear "alone, wow I couldn't..." etc. Truth is, I am little fish in a big ocean with no direction and it was often other peoples faith in me that when stranded in a little village in Panama or in Peru in a tiny town at 3am for instance, that I didn't panic or throw it to the wall and carried on. I've met people who've been through much more hardship than I have ever had to endure and these people are inspiration, at home and abroad. They know who they are and if I tried to name them I'd feel bad if I forgot someone. At New Year in Cambodia we were asked, if there was one thing in 2011 we would have changed about the year, my answer "absolutely nothing" So as I wrote this in a bar in Cambodia back in January getting teary and not really caring who knew, thinking about it all, I'd do it all again in an instant (after a couple of months rest :P).

"You live and learn. At any rate, you live" - Douglas Adams
"Some things never change...some things do. .." Morpheus - The Matrix

My longest travel companion, Kevin & me in Vietnam at Hai Van Pass

Thailand: Reloaded

So the last leg of the trip was a return to Thailand, the only country I will visit twice on the trip. I set off in good spirits from Luang Prabang to begin the end of the trip. The bus journey over, it was rather pleasant except for the worst karaoke videos ever, worst film ever and then said karaoke songs played on repeat. The only other niggly detail was the 'free dinner' only had a limit of 10,000 kip ($1) and the only things on the menu under that were 'rice' and 'vegetable soup'. Either way I returned to Thailand with relative ease, did the usual; found my hostel and got orientated. In the evening I headed out for a beer with some fellow west country people I knew from Cambodia. I am currently chasing them around (Vang Vieng, Luang Prabang and Chiang Mai & Bangkok it would seem). We wandered to the night market where I behaved like a small child wanting to play with all the things I should have grown out of: laser pens, bb guns, lighters, knives etc! We found some cheap ish food and headed to respective homes.

The first days plan was basically "Orientation number 2, trekking research and temple time" I had agreed to pick Loes up from the airport in the evening so this was also planned, due to this I did my favourite new activity of hiring a moped, which led me to venture out of town to the Temple known as "Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep" on my new wheels. It was an interesting ride especially as my new wheels decided not to work, so I returned and got a better newer bike that worked this time. The temple was (when I eventually reached it) quite nice, perched on the hill but far too touristy (as usual).

I returned to Chiang Mai proper, parked off my bike and went for a wander visiting the temples I had originally planned to visit. My favourite time to visit a temple is late afternoon, because it is usually quieter and more inviting. I have visited like a million temples now, my favourite is probably still Potala Palace (although not technically a temple) nothing can compare to it or Zenkoji in Nagano because it was so quiet when I visited it. My point really is that I do enjoy wandering around them, although I am no buddhist these temples do seem to have a calming effect, and on this adventure it was no different and this time I did something I hadn't done in a long time (even with all the temple visits) and just listened to the monks chanting. My head clear I got dinner and practised my Zen by waiting around for Loes to arrive from the airport and fulfil my chauffeur duties. 

Monk Painting

Temple Square

Chedi

Loes arrived and we headed back to the hostel before heading out to meet Helen (another friend from Koh Phangan) in a Thai restaurant/bar/live music venue/club/whatever the otherside of town. It was pretty awesome to say the least, the live cover band were excellent, whacking out the usual pop classics but with some gusto and talent that even those bands fail to achieve at times. Kick out was at 2am and so we searched for other places to continue, the preferred place had been shut down by the police so our next line of adventure was a tuk tuk driver who promised to take us to a place we could buy drinks, he fulfilled his promise by taking us to a...  brothel. Loes broke a vase inside and we decided it was too expensive and shoved 6 people in to one tuk tuk. Ironically we then found an open bar about 100 metres from our hostel.


The next day was time for 'Flight of the Gibbon' a series of ziplines high up in the Jungle. This was immensely fun and at times scary (leap of faith superman zip, 40 metre mission impossible style rappelling) - mainly cause I don't like heights unless I'm roped up (I was). A quieter night followed where I watched England win the Rugby(possibly the only one cheering them in an Irish bar) and we shared stories of what happened in the period between our first meeting at the full moon party and the second in Chiang Mai. On the last day me and Loes wandered around looking for a electronic shop (unsuccessfully) and took in the temples before a quick goodbye with Helen and Marie before Loes left and we all went back to relax after a hectic weekend.

Strapped up

Flying Backwards

Elephant Statue

Tulips(Loes was shocked by them)

The following day I did nothing except book buses and a 2 day trek. In the evening I met Helen and massage crew for dinner and 'quick' drink that turned in to a late night. I woke up for my trek and headed off to a local market before we set off on a 4 hour trek in lush jungle via a waterfall slide to eventually reach a mountainside village which was our home for the night. All tour guides are slightly crazy and this one was no exception, at the market he had asked a girl "How much for Bang Bang?!" (Turns out he was joking an it was a chocolate called "Beng Beng"). He would stop every few minutes to cut down some bamboo and either make a vuvuzela or a slingshot. In the evening he cooked an amazing dinner with far too much food. Later we got out the guitar around the fire and drank horrible Thai Rice 'Whiskey'. He also drew us caricatures in his book, in all he was one of the best tour guides I have had, look him up "Mr Ping Pong".


Second day was a fun trip down to a waterfall for a "swim" and shower before bouldering further down to the Elephant camp for lunch and a ride before we went white water rafting down some rapids with a peaceful bamboo raft to finish. I returned to Chiang Mai to meet Helen one last time for a farewell dinner.

Waterfall Slide

Valley of Green

Guides singing around the fire

Can you guess which one I am?

Champion of the Waterfall

Elephant rides with baby elephant too

It was time for Bangkok, the final 'proper' destination. (Not including a brief trip to london). Easy as night bus which arrived at 530am, not breaking a cardinal rule this time as I am familiar with Bangkok I knew exactly where I was and walked down my road and got a beer while I waited for a reasonable time to check in to my hotel. Which they actually let me do around 7am, so I went to bed for a few hours. I did some totally boring admin stuff for when I am home, job stuff, transport etc before I headed off to see my last set of temples and the Grand Palace which me and Welsh had not done the first time around. Both large and impressive sets of temples I enjoyed them but truly am now all templed out. 
A recurring theme in South East Asia I waited to meet Loes who is practically based in Bangkok for her internship and we headed out for dinner near the infamous Khao San road before heading to the Reggae bar for a bucket. This place reminded me of the Star and Garter (if the Star did buckets) before we headed up to roof bar on Khao San to drink before hitting 'the club'. Without having much else to do in Bangkok on saturday went to Chatuchak Market, a huge market open on the weekends before going to the cinema. The lack of choice was a bit disappointing but we settled for "Safe House" a film where Denzel Washington basically drank nice wine and ran away from 6 million bullets. It made little sense but was enjoyable enough.


In the evening we went back to Khao San road for the same old shenanigans, buckets and street dancing. Sunday was a pretty lazy day which was spent in Lumpini park. In the evening had a curry before parting ways with Loes yet again. Last remaining things to do include buying new shorts (I know england is freezing but I have lots of jeans) and MAYBE buying some gifts for people.

Grand Palace Temples

Gargoyle things

Reclining Buddha

Bangkok near Chatuchak Market

So that was the last two weeks of the whole thing. I'm definitely ready to go home now, it has been an amazing year which I have written a review of which I will post shortly, probably when back in the UK and it will cover everything. Now to make my way home over a few days, stopping in London if anyones about...





Addendum: The Journey Home and the End.
I thought I'd add this here rather than in the review of the year. I ended the trip the exact same way I started the trip in more ways than one. A rather sleepless night an I got my airport transfer at 6am before a quick breakfast to burn the last of my Thai money on a Dairy Queen breakfast.... grimm. Easy enough flight to Mumbai complete with Bollywood film and a second breakfast (of omelette and curry). After an incompetent security check at the transfer in Mumbai and I bordered the second and longest flight of the day. This time a personal screen I went in to travel mode and watched a lot of films; Contagion (better than the advert), In Time, Puss in Boots and Moneyball. The flight was otherwise uneventful apart from the worst landing so far and some poor service.


The real fun started in immigration, a huge queue insured with obknoxious shouty man getting all upset over having to queue. He lost his rag when a woman with two young children who had been in the wrong queue was asked to move to right one, nobody minded letting her in except this massive tool who shouted too all who would listen, ie nobody before security came over and politely told him to shut his massive fucking gob.... he did not. He continued to rant at the lady and then anybody else who was in his vicinity, then the racism came out "go back to India, Indians". Welcome back to England and people wonder why people leave. Obviously not all English people are like this, an my thought was can't we kick him out? The immigration officer joked about the 'entertainment' with a disdainful look on his face, typical sarcasm it was ace. 


I put my warm clothes on and filtered out to the tube and listened to "London Calling" as I felt it was rather appropriate before eventually arriving at Jacobs for a catch up, bangers and mash and to drink some Thai Whiskey/Rum. Thus ending the trip exactly as I had begun it (minus a lunch with Natalie).

Thai Christmas, Cambodian New Year - End Of The Beach Life

No country so far has quite blown me out of the water so quickly with first impressions as Cambodia has. It has been a welcome shock system after Thailand. But first a rewind back to Christmas in Lanta.

Christmas itself came round rather slowly, on Christmas eve I sat on the beach and watched some local dances, fireworks and had dinner at my usual haunt, had some amazing Chicken Satay and called an ‘early night’ In reality I watched some frozen planet and had old school pre xmas insomnia. Christmas morning I tried to find some eggs and Salmon as usual, but this failed I had toast. It being quite windy I decided to head straight to the beach for Windsurfing, some teething problems and I was off, windsurfing is a lot harder than sailing but I managed it, though I’m not fully converted yet. Two hours for a cheap £6, I then was thrown around a room by a little Thai lady… in so much as I had a massage after the hard work that was windsurfing. It being late I made the ‘obligatory’ calls home and once again set off for the beach, I had a beer to accompany the 20 minute walk this entails. The beach was quieter and less celebrations, I got Kevin a picture on Santa’s lap and headed for the most bizarre xmas dinner so far. A mix starter of thai dishes (No name Vegetable, Chicken Satay, Spring Rolls etc) followed by Fish fillet in ‘Thai Spices’ which was tasty if a little overpowering, dessert was fried pineapple and ice cream. All in a rather odd combination, one final wander down the beach collecting photos and I had another early night.

Xmas Cocktail

Starter

Somewhere in here is fish

Fire show

More Fire

Boxing day, more unchristmassy behaviour. I did some admin tasks and sent some letters before hiring a moped for the day and heading for new unchartered areas. I visited Old town and had some fried squid before heading to the Sea Gypsy Village for a beer overlooking the sea before taking a different route home passing mangroves, rice paddies and a ‘Monkey school’. Gasoline is sold in old vodka bottles from ‘Gas Stations’ on the side of the road, it is quite a fun experience filling up. One bottle costs 40bht (80 pence) and two to fill up the moped, the whole day of hire and fuel cost me 340bht (about £7) to really see how great this is, I almost did a loop of the whole island, a taxi to the second beach away from me cost 200bht. In the evening I met El and the dive crew for a Turkey Sandwich and the pub quiz in the Irish bar. (Perhaps the only Christmassy thing I did) leaving early I missed most of it though. A question for my dad here; “What sport is four letters long and starts with a ‘T’?

Pier

Sea Village

Petrol Station

Mangroves

Waking up early I was informed my minibus pick up was actually at 8am, not 7 and then it was rolled back to 9! Somewhere along the line I was picked up by the wrong minibus and upon realising this left at the car ferry port where I was assured I would be picked up in half an hour. Two hours later and thanks to the extremely helpful Thai ladies at the ticket desk I was finally picked up. A shocking service that was still better than Greyhound! (recap: Greyhound left me stranded in Cleveland for 7 hours due to their own ineptitude, hence why I will never use them again, except Canadian Greyhound, they were excellent) Thinking I’d miss my train and therefore my hotel, my bus, and everything I was amazed when I arrived in Trang with ten minutes to spare. I needn’t have worried as just like back home the train was an hour late. I clearly need to appease the travel gods and re-address my Karma balance. The opportunity presented itself at the border. I bumped into a German girl who was headed to Sihanoukville but did not have a ticket. Due to Welsh leaving me in Krabi I happened to have a spare ticket which included accommodation on the way. I had previously tried to shop it but had no takers up to this point so it came in useful. In kindness Tina paid for my dinner, breakfast and a few beers! She has now gone to a Psytrance festival. So that brings us to Cambodia!

From the border crossing it became apparent Cambodia was vastly different to Thailand. By different I mean poorer. It is however very friendly, despite all the hawkers trying to sell you a taxi ride. Making it to Sihanoukville after three days travel I took the first avaible room (it turns out its probably the only available room due to a Cambodian national week long holiday) I went in search of other options and found none so I went for a beer with the guys from the bus, on the beach. After 3 days of solid travel I think it was ok to have a written off day. I learnt some Cambodian and recounted tales of woe from the days travelling before having a phenomenal curry. Food is already looking better than Thailands hit and miss(I prefer Tai Pans Pad Thai) Other things I should mention, there are unfortunately quite a few beggars on the beach and around the bar, most have limbs missing. This is an obvious link to Cambodia’s dark past and the enormous amount of land mines still existing. However beer costs a dollar and the beaches are stunning.

Train Station

Does everyone remember last post about the hunt for Red October? I ended that adventure out of luck but with hope of Cambodia so fresh after a good night sleep I headed to Otres Beach, a 4km stretch of sand with Mangrove trees further away from the main beach. At first sights it seemed again I was out of luck, the usual sea kayaks and windsurfs were easily located. Having good authority that it existed I headed further on until… bingo, I saw a boat being launched. I found not one but four Hobie Cats all rigged and ready to sail, for the easy price of $10 an hour. Hobies are easy boats to sail and with barely a force 2 wind I sailed around a nearby island and down the beach for two hours. I say sailed, I spent half the time lying on my back sunbathing and steering with my feet (that’s how easy it is) The other thing I did was visit the Vietnamese embassy as my travel Karma has swung back to positive. Philip, a swiss I met on the bus mentioned he was getting it here because here is the quickest, turns out Phnom Penh(where I had planned to get it) merely sends the passport to Sihanoukville, hence the 5 day wait. However here it took less than 10 minutes and cost $45. A successful day it was time to head to the Hostel bar for free food and beer due to an opening party with the Australians from my room (who repeatedly mocked me for only spending 3 days there).

I spent the next day having a boat tour of some of the surrounding isands with the Australians from my room. It was an enjoyable excursion and beat my current plan for the day which was 'nothing'. I came home and was informed that my friend Loes from Koh Phangan had made the trip down from Bangkok to Sihanoukville for New Year and by some coincidence was also in my hostel. I found her in the bar next door, where I was berated for having not checked my emails and so being unaware she was definitely coming, where I was and if I was even still around. My excuse that the hostel internet was broken and I had been on a boat all day, didn't cut it. However eveything coming together successfully we headed out to the beach for dinner and to celebrate the New Year with the couple on a honeymoon she had met. This was immense, the whole evening fireworks were launched from the beach, culminating at midnight and lighting the endless beach. The fireworks continued as did the parties...(I should get some photos of the boat trip when the australians get in touch)

A vague idea of all the Fireworks - Photo by Chris Deeney

New Years day followed (as is the custom) I had my traditional new years breakfast of Steak and recounted the tales of the night before. We headed to the beach and failed to swim on the inflatable toys adorning the sea as I refused to pay for it. I lost a game of Paper, Rock & Scissors to a small Cambodian girl with 'sass' who referred to me as "Justin Bieber" and so had to buy a bracelet (I collect these anyway) before getting another bbq on the beach and more buckets. As the night before we had celebrated the end of the year, this night we celebrated the beginning of a new one, though it ended with lost flip flops. The plan had been to go sailing on the 2nd but various events scuppered this plan and instead the day was spent playing pool with Cambodians and watching Youtube videos. Turns out there hadn't been any wind this day, and on the 3rd we headed down Otres beach to once again spend an afternoon sailing in a rather good strong force 3. Tans improved, a casual beer at sunset on the beach followed by an amazing fish platter it was time to roll in to bed for early starts the next day and to leave behind the beach life. 

Otres Beach

Hobie in the Water

Sailors

Boats

Seafood Platter

So after bumming around on beaches for last the month, I probably ought to do some proper travelling, maybe, perhaps oh ohkay. Phnom Penh next for French architecture, S21 and the Killing Fields before then heading on to Siem Reap for a local village tour and of course Angkor Wat. You can’t come to Cambodia and not see it, it’s like going to the Cinema and not seeing a film. Sure there are other things to enjoy; the food, the trailers, the arcade etc but the main reason you go is to watch a film. This analogy works on most famous sites (Machu Picchu, Pyramids, Great Wall etc). After that culture it will be time to hit Vietnam, so for the most part the beaches are over and it will mostly be 'cultural' sites from now on. 

‘Peace

"So, After I lost Everyone" - Full Moon and Islands.

After Bangkok we headed south to the legendary island of Koh Pha-Ngan. This where the world famous full moon parties are held and this was the exact reason we headed to this island. The aforementioned party also lends it name to the title of this post as literally everyones full moon story started this way.

We had been forewarned about staying in Haad-Rin as we were told 'you won't get any sleep' but we decided to throw caution to the wind and did anyway, besides we didn't come here to 'sleep', we came to party, can sleep some other time. For the rest of the first day I read my book in the hostel after a quick tour of town and Welsh went for a beach walk and ended up nearly dying (of exhaustion) from a game of football. In the evening we met the 'lads' from football and played drinking games till we lost the quiz, even with horrendous cheating. Welsh bought me a cider as I had decided 400baht (£8) was far too expensive for it, even if it was Stowford. Welsh went to a pool party whereas I went to the beach, broke my flip flops and threw them in the sea. None the less an enjoyable evening of introduction to the island.

I shall call the second day the adventure day. We hired a moped for all of £3 for the day. We drove it over hills and far away to secluded but due to the weather miserable beaches. Took in a rather dull waterfall and drove back to town, after struggling to make it up a hill. This evening, being the evening before the 'big one' we had a quiet one, the danes from the night before and the scouser who looked EXACTLY like Manwell from Fawlty Towers had heard of a secret bar you had to take a boat too. Thinking this was a good idea, we took quite possibly the most dangerous longtail boat ride ever through rough sea's with absolutely no regard for the waves. It paid off though as the bar was awesomely chilled, quiet and with some people dancing to trance. Another slightly less risque boat ride home and we were prepped.

A completely lazy day of curry for breakfast(lunch) and a casual atmosphere. we saw them setting up the beach and we found our 'party' attire, ie a stupid vest. We returned to the hostel to get painted and in doing so met most of our dorm mates properly (we had of course met them before) where a sense of kinship developed as we took turns to paint each other various colours -cept for the spacehead Americans. We all got suitably attired and headed out to partayyyyyyyyyy. Due to a Lunar Eclipse the moon turned red and disappeared slowly throughout the night. Like previously mentioned at the party we all lost each other, and each persons story is theres to tell. I once lost found the Drum n Bass stage and enjoyed that for a long time before wandering the beach where I was given free stuff.
It is very much like Glastonbury on a beach.

The next night we had another 'quiet' one with our new friends, you know it's not going to be quiet when you buy a bucket to go with dinner(which was a curry where of course we ordered far too much). This night we didn't lose everyone and it wasn't as packed down the beach, everyone else either asleep or dead to the world save a few hardliners. This night was almost better just because we were altogether.

Full Moon a day later

welsh, Loes and Helen

Full Mooned up with the Irish

On a more annoying note Koh Pha Ngan is probably where I began to become disillusioned with travelling in Thailand. It's not so much Thailand as the traveller. For instance, in our hostel we had a group of French/Brazillian guys who can only be described as louts, or to use the technical term; complete Knobheads. They would drink from as soon as they woke up, (10am)blast music out of the hostel bar, catcall women and literally physically hold them while they shouted their taunts. This went on for all 3 days, non-stop An is just a microcosm of a larger issue, (more on these themes later). The islands do have a reputation obviously but I never thought it would be this extreme, I know these people aren't looking for 'Paradise' and I certainly aren't, besides I've already found it...

If people coming to Thailand are looking for the paradise found in the beach then they need stop looking, I should keep this secret to myself but as none of those ‘looking’ will read this here I may as well spill. Firstly, it is not Thailands commercial beach party vibe, that is exactly what Richard was trying to avoid and one can see why, read the aforementioned reason above. So the secret where is the paradise of utopia? If it is beaches then that is easy. The location of this paradise is the San Blas islands of the coast of Panama.

They are an archipelago of islands that are small with sandy beaches and clear waters to swim in. The locals live in wooden huts and fish for Langoustines, crabs and fish. There is one main island that has amenities and a bakery. There are no ‘bars’ on the islands, no discos and definitely no annoying trance music. When the backpackers disembark the yachts arrived they have sailed in on they eat the locally caught lobsters ($1 each) and rice. For ‘partying’ this involves drinking rum and sitting around a fire playing drums, in essence a true hippy experience. This occurs because there is no electricity.

The Panamanian government has also taken steps to protect the indigenous population and its culture, banning large scale tourism and resorts from the islands, in essence protecting uniqueness and brilliance of the islands. What little trade the backpackers do bring will go a long way to these people without destroying their way of life. Creating a harmony rarely found elsewhere. An I’ll end it there cause now I do sound like a damn hippy, so if you ever get the chance to go, take it, crystal clear waters make for awesome snorkelling too.

Sunset in Paradise

ANYWAY back to reality. After full mooning we went to Koh Tao which was amazing. Chilled but still with the beach scene, the boat ride here was fantastic. I read my book about sailing the world whilst everyone else looked a little worse for wear as we rolled in the swell. The girl next to me looking as pale as a ghost turned to me and asked "do you not get sea sick at all? Even reading?"
"Nope"
"You should be a Sailor". Im inclined to agree, sometimes I enjoy the getting there more than where were going and don't want it to end. Anyway after the Voyage of the Vom(sorry everyone) we chilled in Koh Tao in our Bungalow where we mused about where to go and played cards, while I dealt with the effects of the party before having dinner on the beach. We then headed for Krabi after two nights to head for Koh Phi Phi. I like Krabi although it is just a stop off, the hotel is nice and does a killer Mango Lassi.

Suffering before Voyage of the Vom

Sunset in Koh Tao

Koh Tao Beach

Koh Phi Phi is the island from the beach, it is in fact two islands. It is very similar to Koh Phangan in that it is largely a party town for backpackers. Every bar has about two hundred promo staff and drinks promotions. We met Helen, a feisty Irish girl we met in Koh Pha Ngan, she has more banter than most hockey boys and probably hates me cause I'm English. She gave the Welsh jip for being under English rule. Anyway patriotic differences aside we went to a beach and tried unsuccessfully to snorkel. Although we had some fun nights out (free bbq at the irish bar and a nice place called Banana bar) I remembered why I dislike these 'party' islands, too full of people who are literally only on them to get as drunk as possible, every single day. I am not being a travel snob, or a hypocrite I like too party every now and again but every single day? No thanks I'd like some culture too please. Also in musing with Shauna(a girl from the hostel) I realised that in every other single country I've been to by this point I would have been out with a local by now, In China they came and sat at my table and I had a deep conversations about politics and the economy. In Peru, a good percentage of the entire people I hung out with were Peruvian, as examples. In Thailand the only drinking invites I've had have been to "go to my bar" etc. Reasons for this are quite obvious, this area of Thailand is very much geared to tourism, and most of those Thai people who have bars also work on the tour boats. Just when I thought i'd had enough and it couldn't redeem itself we went on a boat trip to Maya Bay (The Beach from the Beach) and other islands, snorkelling, kayaking and jumping off the top deck. The staff were friendly and when we went swimming/kayaking would encourage each other to also jump off the boat and also get us involved. One guy did a backflip off the top of the boat which was impressive. At last, I had found it, Social interaction that goes beyond the "let me sell you something". Our boat had all of like 12 people on it which was great, the whole trip had only cost £6 in the first place. In contrast, a boat doing virtually the same tour (we would anchor next to it) was full of the "let's get drunk brigade" and to further cement this, the Brazillian twats from the full moon were on it. It was pretty packed and looked like a nightmare. However are trip was absolutely amazing from Kayaking around sheltered lagoons to snorkelling. In the evening half of our boat (the non couples it seems)had dinner in the other Irish place and got free shots. If everyday was like that, I could stay but as it was I was ready to move on. Another stop off night in Krabi and we went to Rai Leh.

Flying Welshman

Thai Dive

Boat Krew

Maya Bay

'The Beach'

Oh, further disillusionment and tales of stupidty I have forgotten to add. On the way to Koh Phi Phi a Belgian guy was telling anyone who would listen to his tale of woe from the boat trip from Koh Pha Ngan. In his own words "I left my bags three times to go to the toilet" -idiotic, guess that happened? Yeah he had 25,000 Baht (£500) stolen from his bag. Thinking that would be the end, how wrong were we. When you have stuff stolen you'd think people would learn, nope in the next hour he left his bag unattended at least 4 times. I almost stole from him just to teach him a lesson, but I figured he wouldn't get it. Later on the boat, he asked Welshie (bear in mind we hadn't actually spoken to him, just shared a taxi) a stranger, to look after his stuff. Now I could understand this stupidity had he been a fresh backpacker, like 18 years old on their first trip, but no he was at least mid-thirties.
Second tales of stupdity, this happened all of which in about 10 minutes apart. A guy in a dorm struggled to explain to his friend what initials were. Now firstly a) its pretty easy and b) who doesn't know what they are? In the second quick incident, a girl claimed to have spent £450 on injections, probably a pragmatic thing to do if your doctor says so, but NO who told her this? A fortune teller from Mali said "im worried you don't have enough vaccinations and might get ill". Now I'm immune to most travel things (lots of jabs) and i don't think I've spent anywhere near £450 in getting them all. Anyway, it's not really the cost that bothers, its the reasoning.

Moving on to brighter happier pastures, Rai Leh. This is a climbers paradise. Karsts jut out of the water right on the beach where you can climb from as well as creating amazing scenery. However not being a climber I had little reason to go here. In fact not being a climber or a diver I have little to do for activities... We sat on the beach and watched the climbers which was incredibly relaxing. I liked the people here, not only was it 5000 times less crowded here most people were here to climb rather than get drunk. Welshman helped fix a light fitting in a beach bar, I decided it was a too many cooks job and took my camera back to the bungalow. When I returned it was not working and my Maglite has also decided to break. Anyway for our (Welshs) hard work we were rewarded with a bamboo hit. The light eventually worked and we continued our beach bar pub crawl (hardly a crawl or excessive as there are only about four) and went to bed after I 'lost' the key only to find it again this morning.

Aon Ton Sai(Rai Lei)

Sun going down on Rai Leh

Climbing the Karst

Longtail Boat

I could have stayed in Rai Leh for a long time but fearing I would get bored and having just learnt I actually can rent a boat in Phuket (like the first place so far) I decided to ignore the fact Phuket is probably the worst of all the party places (so i've heard) - expensive etc etc the fact that I can sail has swung this so I am back in Krabi (for the 3rd time) to connect to Phuket. Things are looking up, Ko Lanta should be nice and relaxing for christmas and then it is off to Cambodia.
Photo's of Rai Leh now up and welsh is still feeling sick.