A Year In The Ring of Fire

Well I am Home, I have sorted my job applications for the day and other menial tasks one has to do at home so I thought I'd get this finalised....  enjoy

I have been plotting and planning this blog post ever since I got to South East Asia as to me that signals the end of the trip, despite still being 3 months away at the time it feels like nothing. This was not to say I wasn't keen to carry on travelling, I was. In fact when Welshman decided to head home I seriously considered the same thing but it was never a viable option. I know I would have regretted it, there were still adventures to be had, people to meet and experiences to well, experience. Cambodia proved it was the right choice, the warmth of the people and everything coming together at New Year. (I'm actually writing this still in Cambodia with a solid 45 days to go before I even finish my travels but what I can recall about the year starts now). Being the cynical grumpy bastard I pretend to be, this is actually quite hard, recollecting on everything that has happened, from the amazing scenery to the wonderful people I have met. It has been such an amazing year that I can't understand what I ever did to deserve it. In travelling around the World you learn that despite everything it isn't that big (anymore) and we are all the same. Despite this it is big enough that I have come nowhere near seeing everything and there is still so much more to see. I have seen the worlds highest mountain and sailed under the stars, slept in a temple, a farmers house and many other locations (including an airport). I crossed the international date line twice as well as making it to the Southern Hemisphere for the first time. At every step and turn, sometimes just when you began to lose faith you would meet or find something that made it all worthwhile. So, A year in the ring of fire, Sauntering 'Vaguely' Downwards the year that was.

The Very Beginning, Night One - Hong Kong.

I couldn't quite figure out how to mention everything so I will do brief recaps/highlights of countries, you can find the whole adventure in the previous blogs. Starting in China I fell in love all over again, the people, culture, food and everything. I did all the things I meant to and had time left for some new things. I slept in a temple on a mountain, saw the Li River and even made it to Tibet where I met people who had never seen the Sea. I have since met people who've never seen snow. China was a good reintroduction to the travel lifestyle as it is fairly familiar to me. I'll chuck Korea in here as I was only there a week, seeing Clare who I hadn't seen in a while which is always nice.

Stupa in Zhongdian

Japan came next, a complete culture shock from China. I drank too much sake and ate raw horse. I slept in traditional Ryokans with Tatami mats with sliding doors. I saw the illustrious snowcapped Mt.Fuji, got lost on the Tokyo metro and spent a majority of my time in the 'Onsen'. Arriving 2 months after the Fukushima disaster I saw a country in mourning and repair, yet still very upbeat. It is this pragmatism and cheer that teaches you obstacles can be overcome even with the threat of nuclear oblivion hovering over you.

Nara, Japan

Canada was once again completely different(obviously) to Asia. I watched Ice hockey, predicted a riot and was impressed with the clean up effort afterwards; the best and worst of humanity in 24 hours. It was apparent it wasn't the Vancouvans who had really rioted as they spoke out against it. I saw a humpback whale with Mercedes and saw the most beautiful lake in the world, before walking on a glacier and witnessing bears in the wild(an everyday occurrence for Canadians). Canada was a land of natural wonder and odd food (Poutine)

Lake Louise

Continuing South I walked across Niagara falls where I learnt how incompetent bus companies in America are. I met my friend Welshie for some well needed companionship. We joked with police officers and visited most of the 'great american cities'. In America I was amazed at how generous Welshie's friends were with putting not just him up, but me a stranger too on the logic 'any friend of yours'. They not only put us up but often took us on tours or arranged them for us when they couldn't. It really made me address my half assed attitude to the same thing back home. They repeatedly went the extra mile at every turn. We met Savage and drove up the west coast witnessing beautiful nature and having hilarious adventures (the stripper, the lesbian and the transgender). I returned to Yosemite and it truly is one of the most beautiful places in the world. We saw both man and natures dark sides again, forest fires in Nevada and gambling addiction in Reno.

Lake Victoria

I parted ways with Welshman as me and Savage headed to Panama. We practised our Spanish with the hostel staff and had drunken conversations at 3am in the pool with lightning flashing above us. My naivety kicked in here as a I realised there is no land route from Panama to Colombia in order to get to Peru(the plan). In one of those amazing coincidences I learnt to you could sail to Colombia and so I ended up spending five days at sea sailing to Colombia which was one of the best experiences of the whole trip, and true to the subtitle I hadn't intended to visit Colombia but in the end I did, and I think I needed to. I fell in love with the way Colombian women move on the dancefloor and made it to Peru.

Puerto Lindo

Peru was easily one of my favourite places.Culturally I saw ancient lines, in a hilariously dangerous plane(now its hilarious), climbed Machu Picchu and hung out with monkeys in the Jungle. I cut short Chile just to adventure more in Peru. I met some truly amazing people and was invited to Peruvian birthday parties left right and centre. It wasn't all gravy in Peru there were times I questioned what I was doing and for a few days became unmotivated, but I think this was largely due to not having a proper coversation with anyone for about a week.  However everything transpired to turn the last couple of weeks in Peru in to another amazing time, returning to a hostel 1 month and a half later to still be recognised is a fantastic feeling. This continued in the few days I had in Chile, once again peoples generosity shone through. I met a girl who despite not having ever met agreed to meet and give me tips for Santiago(her mum works with my mum, so in typical mum meddling she passed on the details)

Local Peruvians

In New Zealand it was once again time to meet the Welshman, with a new companion the Stonelake. Old hockey boys from the Plymouth days. New Zealand is again a country of natural beauty. Driving around was a great way to see it as we could stop where and whenever. Once again the Welshmans contacts sorted us out with incredible hospitality, sometimes turning up no less than half an hour before and being lavished with wine. I popped in on my cousin Doug who has a house with a stunning view over South Wellington and the sea. I became frustrated with the New Zealand hostel system, a moniker of "for backpackers by backpackers" is clearly crap when every little thing is charged extra (and it isn't cheap to begin with). Despite this we had a great time in New Zealand, partied with Orlando Bloom (not really) and marvelled at the sites. Visiting Christchurch we saw the destruction from the Earthquake and it was sad to see that the centre has been ruined and the mood in town was rather solemn, while in Thailand we learnt that it had been hit with yet another Earthquake which is never good news. Australia was a write off because I can not afford to spend 3 weeks there.

Some River

Looking forward to returning to Asia, Thailand was both welcome but a bit of a disappointment at times. The rampant over commercialisation found in parts is almost exactly why one wants to leave England. I also found the backpackers weren't so much here to see things, experience culture but more get as drunk as possible. Despite this we met some incredible people, some stunning sites and amazing experiences. It is often when I became disheartened that the best things happen, there are definitely places in Thailand I would return to. I spent my first Christmas away from home, which was a quiet time for reflexion of the previous year and what was to come. Although I spent Christmas eve and Christmas day alone (apart from Kevin)  it never really felt depressing to be alone at this time due to being surrounded by beautiful beaches and relaxed beach bars with fireworks. I wondered if people were thinking "What kind of decisions do you have to make to end up alone at Christmas?"; in my case pretty good ones. However I shared a thought for those whose Christmasses weren't so good, and recounted some of the sights/stories I've seen or heard that were not so uplifting. The second half of Thailand made me think I had been a little too harsh on it as first as I discovered the other, nicer quieter side to it. The Welshman decided to go home midway through and three months early and I can understand why. Either way I eventually re-found my zest and headed to Cambodia.

Rai Leh, Ao Son Tai beach

I almost instantly fell in love with Cambodia. I celebrated an amazing New Year on the beach with new and (new) old friends with fireworks galore. I finally got my sailing fix on and enjoyed some incredible seafood before I left beaches behind for good. I witnessed the dark history of Cambodia and then the incredible sight that is Angkor Wat. The people in Cambodia were amazing and some of the friendliest on the whole trip. With time running out I had to leave Cambodia, rather reluctantly and it is an almost definite return location.

Fishing at Sunset in Cambodia

With time running out the next stop was Vietnam. I started by taking a boat trip down this part of the worlds most important/famous river the Mekong to the Delta area. I acclimatised to the hustle of Saigon and learn't more about the Vietnam war than I had really previously looked in to and learnt the horrors of Napalm and Agent Orange. I headed north in to what was a cold and wet climate. Tet got in the way of a lot of my plans but I met friends from home and made many new ones, which is what its all about. I visited the scenic sights of  Halong bay and the Hai Van Pass before finishing Vietnam in the  UNESCO heritage town of Hoi An, I enjoyed my time in Vietnam but I had met others who had not had such a great time, being scammed as such it reminded one to always be aware and how different experiences shape your opinions.

At Halong Bay

Laos was the next and last new country I would visit on the trip making it country number 15. For a period of time in Nam I had considered skipping Laos due to time constraints but in the end after everyone I know who had been telling me I had to I found the time to include it and was glad I did. Half of all travelling is relying on word of mouth for places and you get an opinion that even the best guide book would fail to provide. I skipped Vientiane and headed to party capital Vang Vieng where I randomly met people I had met all around South East Asia, once again ramming home the 'it's a small world' theory. After leaving Vang Vieng it was time for cultural time in another UNESCO heritage city where I took in temples and met lots of elephants. Laos was a stunning country and I am disappointed I had so little time to explore, there are many sights I would have liked to get in but this is the nature and inevitably when time has become short. The last few months in Asia were almost a contrast to the first three where I had plenty of time and I operated at a slower pace but still managed to take (almost) everything in.

Temple, Laos

Returning to Thailand almost felt like a home coming, not just because it is the only country I revisited on the trip, and nor because I was returning to a familiar location (I was not, Chiang Mai was totally new to me) it was because it was the end, I had the prospect of seeing old faces with little agenda except to prepare for heading back to rainy England. I needn't say a lot here because it is all covered in the previous blog post. What I can say is that obviously being so close to returning home I spent a lot of time thinking about what I will do when back home and seeing If I have come any closer on figuring out what to do with myself. So far the answer is no. I was ready to return not because I am bored/sick of travelling but just because I am looking forward to familiarity and staying in the same place for a while. This is what I came to crave towards the end, stability.

Elephants by the river

People will probably ask me if I've changed or if I learnt anything on my travels. I am not sure if I have changed, I feel my perspective has slightly changed and I hope I am a bit more welcoming and can repay some of the hospitality I have experienced on my travels. Before I finally round up this year long review I thought I'd include some statistics/figures ranging from countries visited, books read to items lost/stolen;

Total countries visited: 15
Books read: over 30

I have taken over 20,0000 pictures.
I have gone through; 3 pairs of shoes, 2 side bags, 3 pairs of flip flops, 1 pair of shorts and 3 pairs of swim shorts.
I have lost; 2 phones, 1 towel and wash bag, a padlock and chain, 1 speaker, 2 t-shirts and most of my socks (Seriously I started with about 7 pairs, bought more along the way and I have about 3 left) :/
I have broken; 2 pairs of headphones, a pair of chopsticks.

On top of this I have mailed two boxes home and sent more stuff home with Welshie.


So to finish, I wrote the majority of this in Cambodia while I waited for a bus, it was an emotional recollection from the lows to the highs, but mostly due to the highs I got emotional. Setting out alone I could never have envisioned what was to come, before I set out I was apprehensive and wondered if I could actually make it a year. Some people think I'm brave for heading out on my own for a year, often I will hear "alone, wow I couldn't..." etc. Truth is, I am little fish in a big ocean with no direction and it was often other peoples faith in me that when stranded in a little village in Panama or in Peru in a tiny town at 3am for instance, that I didn't panic or throw it to the wall and carried on. I've met people who've been through much more hardship than I have ever had to endure and these people are inspiration, at home and abroad. They know who they are and if I tried to name them I'd feel bad if I forgot someone. At New Year in Cambodia we were asked, if there was one thing in 2011 we would have changed about the year, my answer "absolutely nothing" So as I wrote this in a bar in Cambodia back in January getting teary and not really caring who knew, thinking about it all, I'd do it all again in an instant (after a couple of months rest :P).

"You live and learn. At any rate, you live" - Douglas Adams
"Some things never change...some things do. .." Morpheus - The Matrix

My longest travel companion, Kevin & me in Vietnam at Hai Van Pass

Last of the Peruuuuuuuuuuuvians (and one, only one Chile)

My return to Lima was straight forward, athough the bus was an hour late. Its a great feeling to return to a hostel a month later to find the same people are still there and recognise you. I basically hung out in Lima, saw a few new things such as the water fountain park, que night photography/light fun. I also went to a cinema with a bar and tried the Peruvian version of McDonalds - Bembos. I did little else, this post will largely cover Peruvian food!

Posing next to a fountain

Oh I joined the Riot Police

Colourful Fountains

In the water Tunnel

Right Lima covered and photos.... lets talk about Peruvian food, big fans of starch, it is pretty common to get both Rice and Chips as accompaniments. In a list form here is what they eat.

Rocoto Relleno = This is a stuffed pepper, usually stuffed with mince and spicy, it is delicious.
Papa Relleno = This is a stuffed potato, similar to Rocoto again it is very good.
Cuy (In various forms) = Guinea Pig, served whole with body and all. It tastes like chicken, see previous post for a photo. It is traditionally a festive food.
Creme De Zapallo = This is a pumpkin soup, again it is delicious.
Helado Queso = This translates as frozen cheese. It is sort of like a sorbet made from Cheese, but its not cheese. It tastes pleasant enough, couldn't figure out exactly what it was though.
Antecuchos de Corazon = Cow's heart, cooked like a Kebab. Very tasty and meaty.
Camarones with Eggs and Potato = Prawns with a sauce and sort of potato cake thing. Again tasty.
Ceviche = Pretty much the most common seafood dish. Half raw fish in a chilli and Lime sauce served with onions. Simple and brilliant.
Sublime = A brand of chocolate, similar to snickers. A national pride.
Alpaca = Served like a steak, lighter than lamb it can be tough but is usually tasty.
Pollo y la milanesia = A chicken fillet battered and served with rice and chips.
Lomo Saltado = Pretty much a beef stir fry with onions and peppers. Excellent, cheap and tasty.
Peruvian Pizza= Found everywhere, varies from excellent to poor.
Fresh Fruit and Vegetables = Avocadoes out here are ridicuously fresh and tasty. All fruit is fresh and cheap, markets you can get fruit smoothies for next to nothing. Watermelons are huge. In a supermarket we bought about 12 tomatoes for 50 pence. I did a double take when I saw the price.

This pretty much sums up Peruvian foods. I ate pretty healthily in Peru, bar all the starch and occasional burger. I ate way more salad & fruit than usual. One quick note about Chilean food, they have hot dogs here which they coat in Guacamole.

My long haul trip south passed pretty uneventfully, three buses, 50 hours of travel. Oh I forgot to mention I was fined by the Peruvian border patrol because I overstayed my allotted time in Peru by ten days. I was fined a hefty 10 dollars... which I just so happened to have in my wallet.

In Chile, first glances it is much more prosperous than any other South American place I have been. Taxi's have meters and the fashion is a lot more 'diverse'. People also sport ridiculous hair styles; Rat tails and Mullets. My hostel is in Bellavista, which is an area mostly populated by cool cafes/bars with tables on the street for daytime drinking in the sun, in other words totally awesome. (Just like back at home days at the Prom/Blue Lagoon). I have climbed San Cristobal(a big hill with views of the city) met a friend of a friend for drinks. Walked around and generally observed the city before I leave for New Zealand, the end of the South American adventure.

In summary it has been exciting, refreshing, interesting and of course an adventure. I've met many friendly locals and travellers alike. Peoples generosity and warmth never ceases to surprise. But that might just be cause im Cynical... But I have only had a few bad experiences. Time to cross that majestic ocean once more and set down in more unchartered territory. But for now some Chilean pictures and like the end of North America a summary picture that symbolises South America and yet not at all.

Santiago

and for the summary....

I came, I saw, I conquered. Goodbye SA

Just Perusing... Bubbles burst, Jungle Japes and Lake Titicaca.

First... No more bad puns I promise.

Before Leaving Cuzco I witnessed a parade, stuck around for Pirate Party and had a rather tasty smoothy from Muse. I wanted to leave Cuzco by the Monday. Not so much because I had become bored/disillusioned but because it offered routine. The same places, the same people, it was easy to stay and this is perhaps the same reason I needed to get out. So I burst the bubble and left on a flight to Puerto Maldonado... Jungle Frontier town.

Cuzco at Night

A rare picture from a night out (from me anyway)

Puerto Maldonado was hot and humid as soon as we left the plane. I found the hostel easy enough and went off for lunch and to find a tourist office. I settled for some Chinese, which is odd as their are loads of Chinese restaurants in Peru but barely any actual Chinese as far as I can tell. I chose a tourist office opposite the chinese and found a four day tour for the cheap price of $190. I had seen online two day tours for $350 so my usual plan of not planning in advance once again panned out. I had a pizza the night before leaving, accidentally ordering takeway which was fine. If I didn't know better I'd reckon Pizza was the national dish of Peru....(but then thats in tourist towns, which Puno, Cuzco and Nazca undoubtedly are, and hey tourist love pizza right?)

Anyway I left for the Jungle at the spritely time of 10am. The lodge was located an hour down river and so off we went.
Day One: Arrival, Upon arrival I was told lunch would be at one and to hang out till then. Which I did, on a Hammock. A German couple returned from activities meaning I wasn't alone in the lodge. After lunch I was taken off for the first activity; Monkey Island. The name was misleading as we saw zilch. Absolutely nothing except a bird that was allegely rare. Back to the Lodge for more hammock time before dinner. Time to meet the other lodge residents. A red howler monkey named 'Lalo' and a cheeky Macaw named 'PePe'.
After dinner we went for the 'night walk'. This proved more fruitful, within five metres of leaving the lodge we came across a Tarantula on a tree. We saw at least five more giant spiders, a humming bird, some weird bugs and different spiders.

Tarantulaaaaaaaa

Stick Insect

Day Two: After a breakfast we set off for Lake Sandoval, after about an hours walk we reached the lake and boarded a canoe. The sun was out and this meant the temperature rocketed to unbearable. Lake Sandoval is an 'oxbow' lake. Short geography lesson; this mean it was formed by the River breaking its horseshoe shape and straightening leaving an "bow" shaped lake in its place. Anyway it was majestic and grand, surrounded by various wildlife and birds. We climbed an observation tower (we being me and my guide Alicia) and headed for a lunch spot surrounded by butterflies and large red ants. We continued a loop around the lake before heading back to walk. Throughout the trip Alicia explained the things in the jungle to me. Lake and jungle done for the day we headed back to the lodge. This time after dinner we headed down river to look for Caiman. Caiman are basically Alligators. We saw at least 8, Evolutionary flaw... eyes that glow bright red when light is shone at them.

Lake Sandoval

Bird on the Lake

Caiman

Day Three. Canopy walk and Zip Line. This was the order of the morning after breakfast. Up a large tower and across the 'canopy walk' which was in essence a large rope bridge. This gave view of the jungle from the treeline. However it didn't feel safe, im sure we should have been strapped up. After this we went on to the zip line which again wasn't quite as safe as I felt it should have been... maybe I'm just used to western over safety... BUT it definitely needed a break, proven by the fact I careened into Alicia at one end. Otherwise this was fun. Lunch, oddly was set for four people despite me being the only lodge resident. After lunch I went kayaking while my guide followed in the normal boat. We then visited Monkey Island for a second time. This time, however monkeys appeared pretty soon and they were coaxed to the 'feeding area'. Three different kinds showed up; Brown and White Capuchins and one lone spider monkey.
I returned to camp to find three new arrivals, explaining the extra settings at lunch. Either way I was invited on the Caiman tour for a second time. This time we didn't see as many but we saw a family of the Giant Guinea Pig esque things which was pretty cool.

Canopy Walkway

Zip Line

Monkey

Feeding the Monkeys

Day Four. I left. I had seena wide plethora of widlife but no snakes much to my disappointment. I had acclimatised to the heat and thoroughly enjoyed my time in the Jungle. My guides had been excellent with the usual Peruvian sense of humour. I have now failed to think up an example of this humour.

Lalo(Monkey) Alicia (Guide) and Pepe (bird)

Dozing with my new friend Lalo

Sun goes down on the Jungle

Arriving back in Puerto Maldonado I braved the heat and quickly arranged a night bus to Juliaca. The junction point for Puno. I did nothing else except check the internet and eat more chinese food. Which was a mistake as it left me pining for the real thing. I bought supplies for my "14" Hour bus and readied myself. This was not the luxury affair of Cruz Del Sur. Still it was pleasant enough, no horror stories as such. I read my book until the lights went out and then I tried to sleep.

I did get some sleep, but through no fault of my own I broke a cardinal travel rule; (according to guides anyway) 'Do not arrive in an new/unfamiliar city at night'. My bus arrived two hours earlier than I was told, 5am would have been acceptable and in light. However 3am is a different story. Too early to find a bus to Puno I succumbed and grabbed a mototaxi to the nearest hotel that would take me. I paid an extortionate ten soles for this ride, at least the hotel room was cheap. Whether or not it was cause I slept enough on the bus or I was worried about the hotel I didn't sleep at all at this joint. 8am came round and I jumped up and as luck had it found a bus to Puno at the end of my road for a measly 2 soles (fifty pence). In between leaving Juliaca and getting to my hostel in Puno, I lost my phone. I blame sleep deprivation.

Puno, in short words is pretty run down and not so nice. A couple of streets are pleasant as is the square but its so obviously just a crossover point for visits to the lake. I did virtually nothing day one blaming this on my disjointed night. The next day I booked a tour to Los Uros; the floating islands. This tour in itself was really interesting to see how people live on floating reeds. I bought some artwork for my wall as some sort of retail therapy and possibly cause I felt a little guilty about not staying overnight on one of these islands as is possible, my excuse this time is time.

Street Volleyball

Fancy Dress

Learning about the Floatation

Traditional Sales technique

Lake Titicaca

Puno photos when I bother to upload them. I was going to make some observations on Peru, but this post has been long enough. Am now in Arequipa, it is lovely to say the least. Tomorrow a city sight see and then mountain biking and Colca Canyon!
Sayonara.

Four Completely Avoidable Mistakes... Machu Picchu walking tour

Time for another iconic mountain escapade. When one thinks of Peru you nearly always think Machu Picchu, Llamas and Guinea Pigs. Well I do anyway. This is a story of fun, hardship, pain, reward and as usual rum.

I broke the cardinal rule of walking shoes... I bought new shoes the day before the trek. This was my biggest mistake, perhaps of the whole trip. In the shop they seemed fine. By day one I realised they were too small, by the end of day two my feet were in a world of pain. This will be detailed further and I full well know I should of known better, I miss my old walking boots. First mistake...

Second mistake, I forgot to ask if I needed to rent/bring a sleeping bag... ergo I had no sleeping bag. This only really affected the first night sleep, cause after this I borrowed a blanket. I know, once again poor planning screwed me.

Day one started at 430am with a pick up from the hostel. I jumped into the van to sleep. Two hours later and a quick breakfast we headed off up the hill for a relatively easy days hike. Three hours to lunch and three hours after. Lunch was soup and rice(a theme). The group consisted of 17 plus the two guides, cooks and horsemen. The majority of our group was Swiss but also comprised Americans, Australians, Spanish, Israeli, German and Dutch to get a feel of things. I was the only token Brit for once. At lunch, I was apparently lunch for about a hundred flies and this necessitated reattaching the bottom of my shorts.

At the end of day one we played a 'Rest of the World' vs Peru plus Girls football match (we won) and settled down  a surprisingly tasty dinner. I was fully prepared for a five day detox, but after dinner the rum soon came  out and we played pigs. A game similar to dice based on points.

Before lunch ready to walk

Dog overlooking the mountains

Day two was 'the hard day' an early start and straight up hill to our higest point for three hours. The climb was  tough but tolerable and was rewarded with amazing valley views and fog/snow at the top of the pass. Going uphill my feet felt best but it was apparent that my feet were hurting. After five hours of walking a much needed lunch was shared in a farm shed before a final (exhausting) three hours to camp. Spotting what we thought was camp in the distance, we took a five minute break to prepare for the last half an hour only to then walk around the corner straight into our actual camp! The scenery had begun to change in the afternoon from mountainous to green forest.
Shoes off and feet patched up(squeamish people don't read this: my pre-existing blister had ballooned in size and my nails had cut into the sides of my toes. My big toes were looking considerably off colour...) I removed the soles for some extra space and joined the others for a celebratory snickers and beer.
Pre-dinner was an amazing selection of popcorn and crackers. Dinner itself was the staple soup and rice.
After dinner went much the same as the previous night... games and rum till later than we should have.

Valley Views

The group

Juan Carlos explaining offerings to PachaMama (Mother World) and looking decidedly cold

Day three was billed as the easiest. For me it was the opposite. In theory it was an easy three hours downhill, however every step I took sent agony either through my feet or my knees (a by-product of ill fitting shoes). Eventually I made it to lunch where all walking for the day was over. The usual lunch was followed my another football match, which due to my feet I had ruled myself out of so instead I practised my sport photography.
After this we were driven off to camp and after putting up the tents to some outdoor hot springs. This completely rejuvenated us and was epic bliss, a much needed treatment for the feet. The same dinner routine was enjoyed. In a slight shape up for rum consumption instead of pigs we played monoply (with cards) and then ring of fire.

Greenery

Local kid, proceeded to swipe snotty nose on my lens!

Cool Kid

Footballers in action

Day four. Dosed up on maximum strength aspirin (the stuff is amazing) I had one of the best days walk, 6 hours total to Aquas Calientes (literally hot water). The walk was a steady uphill in the warm sun to lunch at the hydro-electric damn. This stretch also included a 'cable car' river crossing. Basically a trolley attached to some rope. The afternoon was completely flat and included the first views of Machu Picchu mountain, ruins and Waynapicchu. It gave you an idea of how remote Machu Picchu is; we literally walked around the whole mountain and saw no viable paths, except old remnants of Inca Trail which had to be pointed out.
At lunch I had left my bag to be taken the last stretch by train, due to sunny weather I put everything (waterproofs, jumper etc) in the bag... Mistake number three. Obviously my rum offering at lunch (in re-packing my bag I had shared a swig of rum with the guides and Pachamama, ie pooring it on the floor as is the custom) was not appreciated as for the last half an hour of the walk it rained. Not just dull rain but epic rainstorm rain. Soaking me fully to the bone, on top of that the train was almost two hours late meaning I had no clean/dry clothes. Silver lining we were staying in a hostel so had towels and hot showers. The swiss girls had bribed us with the promise of another bottle of rum if we collected their bag from the station (a wise move considering the weather) so once again before our earliest start we socialised drinking rum with ring of fire.

Towards Hydro-electric Dam

Cable Car Crossing

Machu Picchu and Waynapichu

Day Five. Machu Picchu ascension day. Easily the hardest wake up due to being in an actual bed, it being 4am and the prospect of wet socks and boots. We left on time (ish) at 430am and headed off in the dark to climb for 'sunrise' at Machu Picchu. This was an epic hour long trek up stone steps in humidity. By the end I was soaked through... it had not rained. If I was given one piece of advice the day before by Sandra(who left our tour early to join her friend) it was to bring a spare shirt.... mistake number four! Anyway a little damp never hurt anybody so mission accomplished we didn't see a sunrise as there was no sun. We wandered around taking obligatory Faceache profile pictures and taking in the sites. I climbed Waynapicchu at the nice time of 7am. This was lucky because any later and I wouldn't have bothered due to being knackered and my feet. It offered more stunning views of Machu Picchu and the route we walked the day before. I spent a good half hour relaxing on the top, taking photos of the sites and Japanese tourists... as one does.
I got the bus down around four and took of my boots for the final time... I doubt there are many better feelings than that. Spent the rest of the day relaxing in Aquas Calientes eating pizza and shopping before catching a late train back to Cuzco.

Faceache profile picture

Terraces

From the top of Waynapichu

Summitting

In the sun

I've already explained some of Cuzco, so to add. It was dubbed 'The Bubble' at some point, it being in Peru but not 'real Peru'. It is its own small encapsulated area of backpackers and locals. It is easy to enter but hard to leave. I have ended up being here almost a full week. Its a lot of fun and provided much needed rest from walking. However I have my exit booked so on monday I am outta here.

Right then, big moves and shakers in the world of travel plans. On Monday I fly to Puerto Maldonado in the Jungle. The news is my decision to basically write Chile off, and focus solely on Peru, taking it in at a nice pace and seeing some of things I want to and have missed. This means Titicaca, Arequipa and Ica for sand boarding/Ballestos Islands. This also means I will loop back on myself. It also means 3 days of travelling to reach Santiago from wherever I am in Peru (most likely Ica).

Well now you are all updated... time to watch Dr Who.